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Anguilla: Proof Is in the Poshness

Anguilla is one of those beguiling places that always leaves visitors scratching their heads. It's been that way since at least 1969 when the island seceded from its union with St. Kitts-Nevis, prompting an invasion by Great Britain. Troops landed expecting a fight but instead found themselves applauded by Anguillans who lined the shores to greet them. What the island really wanted, had anyone bothered to listen, was to ditch the whole idea of independence and remain forever a part of merry old Mother England.

Anguilla got what it wanted. And the troops departed, both puzzled and delighted by their experience, which is an altogether appropriate response to everything about Anguilla. Most particularly, it's a place that nowadays begs the question: How did such a tiny island with so little in the way of physical endowment come to have so many fine restaurants and great places to stay?

The answer: Stop asking questions and just enjoy it.

Unlike parts of nearby Sint Maarten/St. Martin, seven miles to the south, Anguilla has largely succeeded in confining sprawl and development by attracting smaller, high-end hotels that don't overwhelm the terrain or detract from the island's precious necklace of beaches. The most notable new arrival is on Rendezvous Bay, where the CuisinArt Resort and Spa - yes, CuisinArt as in food processor - has sprouted atop the sand dunes, with 93 luxury suites and penthouses in a distinctive Mykonos-inspired setting. The resort showcases both parts of its brand name. There's original artwork in the suites and an on-site gallery, and its three restaurants feature fresh vegetables grown in CuisinArt's state-of-the-art hydroponics greenhouse.

Guests at the resort are further pampered by in-room amenities that include a gift basket from Rusk (shampoo, bath salts, moisturizers, etc.) and high-powered blow-dryers from Conair, all part of the CuisinArt corporate family. The 6,000-square-foot, three-story spa features three indoor and two outdoor treatment rooms with staff available for massages, reflexology, seaweed wraps, hot-stone therapy and other spa delights.

Just west of Rendezvous Bay, Cap Juluca, one of the standard-bearers in Anguilla's luxury line, remains closed after the licking it took from November's Hurricane Lenny. Plans call for repairs to be complete by midfall.

Anguilla is taking another step into the upscale villa market at Shoal Bay West. Architect Myron Goldfinger, known for the island's acclaimed CoveCastles, has designed Altamer, a secluded hideaway with its first phase scheduled to open this summer - a five-bedroom, six-bath villa that rents for US$2,250 a night, and as much as US$5,000 in the winter season. The 12,000-square-foot villa - at least two others are planned - sleeps up to 10 guests and includes three meals a day prepared by a private chef. The rest of the package includes a concierge, valet, housekeeper and gardener, along with computer, fax and DVD equipment.

As far as nightlife goes, the island is buzzing about L.A. Cafi, an enormous disco where Anguillans dress to the nines and fork over three fives for the cover charge. It is the place to see and be seen, and it has even begun attracting nighthawks who ferry over from Sint Maarten/St. Martin.

In another one of those typically bemusing Anguillan scenarios, L.A. Cafi's house band performs in front of a giant screen that simultaneously shows old videos of groups like Kool and the Gang. Don't try to figure it out. Just go and have fun.

Posted online 06/01/00.

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