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Walk This Way

Crouching low, we creep out of the dark, cool dungeon under Fort Christiansvaern, making our way outside and up the stone stairs that lead to the roof. Here above, the sun dazzles, glinting off the shiny black-enameled barrels of cannons aimed out over the small harbor. I'm with Laverne ''Verne'' Frederick, an outgoing history buff and founder of St. Croix Heritage Tours, and we're on her walking tour of Christiansted, St. Croix, the capital of the Danish West Indies from 1755 to 1871. An imposing yellow structure built in 1749 to protect Christiansted, the fort was turned over to the U.S. National Park Service in 1952. Most of it has been carefully restored, including officer's quarters complete with period furniture and authentic details.

From the fort's ramparts, we survey Christiansted. The city packs a lot of history into a very small space, so a guided tour is the best option. Verne's commentary chronicles everything from the arrival of the Europeans to the birth of Alexander Hamilton to the sale of the island to the U.S. in 1917.

Verne leads us across the street to the Steeple Building. Erected in 1753, it was the first church built by the Danes in the New World. It now houses a museum with Amerindian artifacts and exhibits on African history and plantations.

Leading us down King Street, Verne explains why the streets are so narrow (they only needed to be wide enough for a donkey cart) and why many exterior staircases widen at the bottom (called Dutch ''welcoming arms''). Government House, used by the USVI's governor when he's on island, is a three-floor storybook fantasy in Dutch colonial style. We ascend the mammoth staircase to the ballroom, which is used for parties and receptions; its windows look to be 20 feet tall, and lavish paintings and gilded mirrors adorn the walls.

Verne takes a shortcut to the Apothecary Museum on Queen's Cross Street. It's a nook of a place, with Plexiglas separating us from hundreds of antique jars, cabinets and tools. The museum was a working pharmacy from 1828 until 1970.

We stop for lemonade before making our way to the Old Marketplace, circa 1779. Slave traders conducted business here, and the open-air structure is still used, but to sell vegetables and handicrafts rather than people.

Verne ends our tour on the waterfront. The harbor glitters in the late afternoon light, and my feet are ready for a rest after covering so many centuries in just under two hours.

The walking tour of Christiansted lasts about an hour and a half and costs $12 per person, including a cold drink. Visit www.stcroixtours.com or call 340-778-6997.

Posted online 11/28/01.

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